Day 7 (Tues, 29 April) Samos to Portomarin

Hi, still with me?

Glad to hear it so let´s get going cause we have a long way to go today. All the way to Portomarin or about 35 kms. In the rain, yes, again, and with only a few minute´s break in between.

One thing I noticed, and other people commented on, is the fact that distances in Galicia are fairly flexible. As the days went by I got the impression that originally all distances in Galicia had been calculated in miles and then they simply changed the sign to kilometres without adjusting the numbers. The distance to Santiago milestones are fairly accurate but they don´t tell you how far it is to the next town. In fact, in the Lugo province they don't even put the names of the villages out. Maybe they are afraid of invasions or they think that they know the name and bugger everyone else. In Castilla-Leon every village had a big sign at the entrance telling you everything there is to know about it and, very important, how far the next town or village was. Galicians haven's spent a single cent on anything but yellow arrows and milestones. You're on your own, mate, and don't bother with the maps because they all have different numbers for the distances and they don't relate to the miles walked. Together with the constant rain, it made trekking in Galicia a very frustrating experience.

But anyway, there I was berating the gods and screaming obscenities into the lonely air when another hiker came past. I hadn't seen anyone for a while and had not noticed anyone behind me so his appearance came as something of a surprise. In fact, he had been sheltering in a bar I had seen just before and had just come out reinvigorated. I ranted for a while longer in Spanish and then, when he said he was German, in English as well. It was good to get it off my chest, I must say.

We walked together and chatted for a while. We had both spent time in Brazil and had traveled extensively in the past. We stopped at a bar for a hot cup of tea and he met up with some real Brazilians he'd met before. They were going the same way and their friend was driving the support vehicle. Very organized these people. The good thing for me was that Encarnación (her real name and, like Purification and pain etc, no surprise to any resident of Spain) had a similar phone to mine and therefore a car charger. She offered to charge my phone for me and give it back in Portomarin. Anywhere else and I would not have considered this as an option but on the Camino....

Have I mentioned losing things before? Well, I do, on every trip. Not usually very expensive things but things you bloody well need but suddenly cannot find. A real nuisance, I can tell you. I had already lost a scarf/beanie combination that Marta had lent me and later I would also lose the hat she'd given me and later I would lose the beanie as well. On the previous walk I lost one glove and something else as well. I would lose a few more inexpensive but suddenly essential things over the following days. I guess I'll have to be mer careful. Or maybe carry spares of everything.

Anyway, after what seemed like a lot more miles than indicated on the map we eventually got to Portomarin at about 7 pm. The hostel was the Mirador, a place with a view, and it really had a good view of the river etc. The bed was 9€ and the dinner as well. I had a great squid soup but a very average scrambled eggs. The others had more interesting main courses and I kicked myself for not choosing better. The wine was nothing to talk about and I only had a few sips. Reds in Galicia are generally not very good but the whites offer better value for money. After a little chat with the Brazilians and Encarna (the phone was fully charged and therefore a long talk with Leslie very welcome) it was time for bed at a rather sober 10.30 pm. But, on the road, you really don´t feel like partying much and if you tried dancing you'd move like the monsters in Michael Jackson's "Thriller".
Tomorrow, as they say, is another day, another wet one!