Saturday Separations
During yesterday´s walk a few blisters appeared on several feet. Christine was done in by the stones, rocks and the gradient of the walk. Her shoes could not take it and her feet were sore. Sonia broke a nail that turned a nasty blue-red and looked infected and Gonzalo showed off a great big beauty under his foot. So all three retired and took the bus to Ponferrada and then on to Villafranca del Bierzo. Kim was going back to Madrid anyway so there were only Monica, Petrie and I on this leg (so to speak) of the trek.
Confession time. Today we carried our backpacks! On previous days we and other backpackers paid for our heavy packs to be taxied to our stopping place and delivered to the hostel. The fee came to about 5 € each time and was well worth it. Monica insisted on carrying her pack every day and was an inspiration to us all.
The day started miserably with rain and a cold wind. On the bright side was the fact that the walk was mainly downhill so for myself and Petrie the weight of the pack was not as great as it could have been. In Ponferrada we went to the bus station so that I could endorse my ticket from Villafranca back to Madrid over to Sonia and then we headed out of town. Ponferrada is a city that has a long history. The Romans had been here as well and the Templars and other Knights as well. There is a big castle, a cathedral and lots of other stuff to see. Well worth a visit and the food and wine of the Bierzo region are excellent.
After about an hour´s walk the girls had fallen behind and I was left to walk with only my thoughts for company. Not a bad thing, really and being cocooned in your rainproof poncho limits your field of view so that there is only you and the path for most of the way. Passing through small villages of varying beauty is interesting and pleasing to the eye as well as useful for the resting and refueling places they provide the weary traveler. The walk through the vineyards of the Bierzo is bucolic and the weather cleared enough for me to enjoy the scenery and take a few snaps. I was eventually glad to arrive at our stopping place, the Town Hall´s Pilgrim´s Rest just outside Villafranca del Bierzo. Unfortunately, I had already settled in and had a shower before I realized there was no heating in that place and that the forecast was not very pleasant at all. Still, it was comfortable, there was plenty of hot water and blankets galore.
When the ladies arrived about 40 minutes later we went into town to explore and to snap away. You can see the results on the side. The Sevilla restaurant was recommended and it turned out to be a good choice because the house wine was good and the food great value. Unfortunately, like in most Spanish restaurants, it was not hot. Generally speaking, if you want hot food it´s better to tell the,. Also, what I tend to do is to order just the first course and then the second when I´ve finished it. This way they cannot prepare both meals and leave the second to await your pleasure. It pisses off the kitchen but you do get a hotter steak or whatever.
This town is beautiful. Lots of narrow cobbled streets and alleys, pitched roofs and hills all around. Not sure whether the Romans made it out here but I wouldn't be surprised. ´The church is great and they were getting ready for a procession so we got to see all the carved figures sitting around waiting to be taken along the procession. Back at the hostal, we sat around for a while and then went to bed because the next day was going to be very difficult. As it turned out, we were not cold during the night and everyone slept soundly.
25 marzo, 2008
Day 3
On to Molina Seca.
We knew this day would be more difficult but the sunshine and the fresh temperature made the going easier. Off we headed, all together, and soon were separated by speed and stamina. The need for proper footwear soon became evident and Christine fell back. One of the things the Camino teaches you is that everyone travels at their own speed, hanging back with a friend or new encounter, forging ahead or just taking in the view. You will eventually catch up with your companions at the end of the day and that is the perfect time to share your stories.
The Camino is, after all, a reflection of life itself. You have to be yourself, do your thing and move at your own speed. If you try to keep up with someone faster and fitter you´ll soon wear yourself out. If you try to slow down enough to keep up with a slower companion you´ll eventually get tired and you will not enjoy yourself. Some might say that it is selfish to think of yourself but I disagree. The word "selfish" has been given a bad run and I think we are all selfish to a certain degree. In fact, I´ll go as far as to say that anyone who says they are "only doing it for your own good" are the most selfish of all, together with those who help you because they expect something in return, eventually. This does not mean just looking out for number one but it does mean that if you want to help you should do it for the sake of helping and not for any other reason.
OK, back to the Camino. This is a very interesting section and one that is worth doing even if you only have a few days. The uphill and down dale sections are beautiful and you you can really commune with nature. There are a couple of lovely villages and sharing the walk with a few people is a great experience. Eventually you come over a ridge and see, way downhill, a village and the church spire. That is Molina Seca, an ancient village that even the Romans used as a rest stop. I was here last year for an intensive English course, using Shakespeare as a base. We had a great time and I got a taste of the Camino when I noticed the pilgrims walking past the luxury hotel we were staying at. I even went for a long walk along the path and decided that, one day, I would walk through this town on the way to Santiago. Little did I know that only eight months later I would be doing just that. Life is certainly full of surprises.
Kim and I were the first to reach the village and we grabbed a spot in the sun, by the river, at a restaurant that we hoped would quench our thirst and fill our bellies. We waited, and waited, and waited. By the time we were brought a menu and we saw the prices we were tired of waiting and the sun had gone behind the church spire. Off we headed to our rest stop to join the others and start another pilgrimage towards a suitable feeding spot. After wandering around some people managed to score a slice of tortilla but I just settled for a cold beer. We did, however, manage to book for dinner and that is what we did. The food was very good and the bottle of Bierzo wine I had was quite delicious and went well with the large chunk of grilled meat I ordered. The others settled for the Menu del Peregrino, also good value and a decent red as well.
The hostel in Molina Seca costs 7€ and is new. The owner and his wife are friendly and there is heating, plenty of hot water as well as washing facilities for those who need them. They also have beds in stead of bunks. It is on the road out of town so you are well placed for a downhill start to the day. Unfortunately, the 7 km trip to Ponferrada is mostly along the highway so it is not as interesting as being out in the country.
We knew this day would be more difficult but the sunshine and the fresh temperature made the going easier. Off we headed, all together, and soon were separated by speed and stamina. The need for proper footwear soon became evident and Christine fell back. One of the things the Camino teaches you is that everyone travels at their own speed, hanging back with a friend or new encounter, forging ahead or just taking in the view. You will eventually catch up with your companions at the end of the day and that is the perfect time to share your stories.
The Camino is, after all, a reflection of life itself. You have to be yourself, do your thing and move at your own speed. If you try to keep up with someone faster and fitter you´ll soon wear yourself out. If you try to slow down enough to keep up with a slower companion you´ll eventually get tired and you will not enjoy yourself. Some might say that it is selfish to think of yourself but I disagree. The word "selfish" has been given a bad run and I think we are all selfish to a certain degree. In fact, I´ll go as far as to say that anyone who says they are "only doing it for your own good" are the most selfish of all, together with those who help you because they expect something in return, eventually. This does not mean just looking out for number one but it does mean that if you want to help you should do it for the sake of helping and not for any other reason.
OK, back to the Camino. This is a very interesting section and one that is worth doing even if you only have a few days. The uphill and down dale sections are beautiful and you you can really commune with nature. There are a couple of lovely villages and sharing the walk with a few people is a great experience. Eventually you come over a ridge and see, way downhill, a village and the church spire. That is Molina Seca, an ancient village that even the Romans used as a rest stop. I was here last year for an intensive English course, using Shakespeare as a base. We had a great time and I got a taste of the Camino when I noticed the pilgrims walking past the luxury hotel we were staying at. I even went for a long walk along the path and decided that, one day, I would walk through this town on the way to Santiago. Little did I know that only eight months later I would be doing just that. Life is certainly full of surprises.
Kim and I were the first to reach the village and we grabbed a spot in the sun, by the river, at a restaurant that we hoped would quench our thirst and fill our bellies. We waited, and waited, and waited. By the time we were brought a menu and we saw the prices we were tired of waiting and the sun had gone behind the church spire. Off we headed to our rest stop to join the others and start another pilgrimage towards a suitable feeding spot. After wandering around some people managed to score a slice of tortilla but I just settled for a cold beer. We did, however, manage to book for dinner and that is what we did. The food was very good and the bottle of Bierzo wine I had was quite delicious and went well with the large chunk of grilled meat I ordered. The others settled for the Menu del Peregrino, also good value and a decent red as well.
The hostel in Molina Seca costs 7€ and is new. The owner and his wife are friendly and there is heating, plenty of hot water as well as washing facilities for those who need them. They also have beds in stead of bunks. It is on the road out of town so you are well placed for a downhill start to the day. Unfortunately, the 7 km trip to Ponferrada is mostly along the highway so it is not as interesting as being out in the country.
Day 2
Hello again,
Well, actually I am now back in Madrid but since we had no internet access along the way this addition will bring you all up to date. As I write this Monica and Petrie are still out there, surviving the elements
and the pain. Un Saludo y Buen Camino to them.
OK, Day 2 is really day 1 of the walk. Heading off this fine day were Monica, myself, Christine, Kim, Petrie, Sonia and Gonzalo. All of us associates of Lawrence´s Philosophy Group in Madrid. We started fairly early and stopped for a good breakfast (no, not bacon and eggs!) and then headed out into the wilderness. Really, the main road out of town until we got we left the road and went bush, as we say. It was a pleasant and fairly flat trek up to the time we got close to Rabanal del Camino, about 24 km away. By the way, these distances are approximate and I err on the side of caution rather than extravagance.
The Pilgrims Hostelry we graced with out presence is the Nuestra Señora del Pilar. This ranch style place is pretty good, has heating, a bar and food plus pretty comfortable bunks and good showers. It cost us 4€ a night and was worth the money. After a shower and a beer while waiting for the slower paced of the group we headed off to find lunch. Most places, I should tell you, offer what they call a "Menu del Peregrino" which is basically the Menu del Dia but all day and at a decent-not cheap-price. Sonia and I settled for the Cocido Maragato which is a very similar to the Cocido Madrileño (Google it) except that the soup is served at the end of the meal. The meal consists of a selection of cuts of meat and smallgoods, cabbage and chickpeas all cooked together in stock. The idea of having the soup after the solid stuff was that in times of war, if you got interrupted at least you fought with more than liuid in your belly. A hearty and tasty meal, I must say.
Now for the village. As you see, it´s not very big and it´s on the side of a hill and as with most villages on the way there is a church. OK, three churches and monks. This being Easter Thursday there was a mass with singing and washing of feet. I was lucky enough to be invited (along with Gonzalo and 12 others to have our feet- one foot, really- washed as part of the Service.
I have to admit that it was a memorable experience. As a kid in Italy (before we headed off to sunny Australia) I had been an altar boy because I´d noticed that the girls go for the uniform. That was about the extent of my religiosity and, I hate to confess, I even set my hair on fire at the age of eleven when I fell asleep during a particularly long sermon. The great big candle I was holding had ignited my afro like top and the acrid smell of smoke had jarred me awake just in time to see this crazy woman racing towards me with a Vangelo held in a dangerous striking position. Needless to say, that episode is still talked about in Bogliacco.
Back to the hostal and a pair of Pacharans with Kim while the others meekly drank tea, ColaCao and similar beverages, we sat around by the fireplace singing along to the music on my mobile and chatting away till it was time to go to bed. The next day was going to be a long and uphill journey and we needed a good kip.
Well, actually I am now back in Madrid but since we had no internet access along the way this addition will bring you all up to date. As I write this Monica and Petrie are still out there, surviving the elements
and the pain. Un Saludo y Buen Camino to them.OK, Day 2 is really day 1 of the walk. Heading off this fine day were Monica, myself, Christine, Kim, Petrie, Sonia and Gonzalo. All of us associates of Lawrence´s Philosophy Group in Madrid. We started fairly early and stopped for a good breakfast (no, not bacon and eggs!) and then headed out into the wilderness. Really, the main road out of town until we got we left the road and went bush, as we say. It was a pleasant and fairly flat trek up to the time we got close to Rabanal del Camino, about 24 km away. By the way, these distances are approximate and I err on the side of caution rather than extravagance.
The Pilgrims Hostelry we graced with out presence is the Nuestra Señora del Pilar. This ranch style place is pretty good, has heating, a bar and food plus pretty comfortable bunks and good showers. It cost us 4€ a night and was worth the money. After a shower and a beer while waiting for the slower paced of the group we headed off to find lunch. Most places, I should tell you, offer what they call a "Menu del Peregrino" which is basically the Menu del Dia but all day and at a decent-not cheap-price. Sonia and I settled for the Cocido Maragato which is a very similar to the Cocido Madrileño (Google it) except that the soup is served at the end of the meal. The meal consists of a selection of cuts of meat and smallgoods, cabbage and chickpeas all cooked together in stock. The idea of having the soup after the solid stuff was that in times of war, if you got interrupted at least you fought with more than liuid in your belly. A hearty and tasty meal, I must say.
Now for the village. As you see, it´s not very big and it´s on the side of a hill and as with most villages on the way there is a church. OK, three churches and monks. This being Easter Thursday there was a mass with singing and washing of feet. I was lucky enough to be invited (along with Gonzalo and 12 others to have our feet- one foot, really- washed as part of the Service.
I have to admit that it was a memorable experience. As a kid in Italy (before we headed off to sunny Australia) I had been an altar boy because I´d noticed that the girls go for the uniform. That was about the extent of my religiosity and, I hate to confess, I even set my hair on fire at the age of eleven when I fell asleep during a particularly long sermon. The great big candle I was holding had ignited my afro like top and the acrid smell of smoke had jarred me awake just in time to see this crazy woman racing towards me with a Vangelo held in a dangerous striking position. Needless to say, that episode is still talked about in Bogliacco.
Back to the hostal and a pair of Pacharans with Kim while the others meekly drank tea, ColaCao and similar beverages, we sat around by the fireplace singing along to the music on my mobile and chatting away till it was time to go to bed. The next day was going to be a long and uphill journey and we needed a good kip.
19 marzo, 2008
Day 1
Greetings o Visitors!
The day starts afresh with a treck downhill, following the path of Santa Isabel, through the throng of the assembled at Atocha and then down to that famous Pilgrimage Starting Point known as Estación Sur, in Mendez Álvaro. Verily, we are still in Madrid and our journey begins.
With me this early but sunny morning is Christine; we are the first to set off, to lay the groundwork and to reserve the bunks that will receive our weary bodies tonight. Mónica Pellegrin (our fearless leader and inspiration-wwwhat a name!) will join us a bit later with other compatriots. I´ll leave their names for later since not all who said Aye! are coming. The villains are waiting to see what the weather holds in store for them.
Oh the Pain, the Suffering! Only and hour into this voyage and my bum is sore. Yes, I know this is but the start of the Odyssey and other parts of our anatomy are going to suffer. Four hours later we arrive at our first stopping place, Astorga. This is a lovely town with the usual cathedral, church etc. If you want more info just look it up.
A short walk takes us to our Hostal, Siervas de Maria, run by nuns and very clean and friendly. We are given a dormitory and it looks like Gonzalo and I will be the only guys surrounded by 8 other (I use the term loosely here) maidens.
Now for the search for a siutable endroit for for the Pilgrimn´s first meal After scrutinizing Menus del Dia Christine has the brilliant idea of asking some locals who´ve just come out of a bar for recommendations. No, they don´t recommend the place they just exited, they direct us further up the road and around the corner where there is a selection of hostelries of various prices and apparent qualities. We settle for one called El Salvador (calle Postas, 7) and, indeed it is our salvation. The house wine is quite delicious, the fish fillet gigantic (Christine leaves nothing), my Revuelto de Ajetes very tasty as is my Esttofado de Ternera. The Puding we have, alas, is similar to all Spanish "Pudins" even though this one is a shade better than the others. Of course, it does not reach the heights of Mari Luz´s desserts at El Casón.
Ok, gentle readers, time for a little siesta and then off we go again to explore the sights of this town. More to follow, with pictures.
The day starts afresh with a treck downhill, following the path of Santa Isabel, through the throng of the assembled at Atocha and then down to that famous Pilgrimage Starting Point known as Estación Sur, in Mendez Álvaro. Verily, we are still in Madrid and our journey begins.
With me this early but sunny morning is Christine; we are the first to set off, to lay the groundwork and to reserve the bunks that will receive our weary bodies tonight. Mónica Pellegrin (our fearless leader and inspiration-wwwhat a name!) will join us a bit later with other compatriots. I´ll leave their names for later since not all who said Aye! are coming. The villains are waiting to see what the weather holds in store for them.
Oh the Pain, the Suffering! Only and hour into this voyage and my bum is sore. Yes, I know this is but the start of the Odyssey and other parts of our anatomy are going to suffer. Four hours later we arrive at our first stopping place, Astorga. This is a lovely town with the usual cathedral, church etc. If you want more info just look it up.
A short walk takes us to our Hostal, Siervas de Maria, run by nuns and very clean and friendly. We are given a dormitory and it looks like Gonzalo and I will be the only guys surrounded by 8 other (I use the term loosely here) maidens.
Now for the search for a siutable endroit for for the Pilgrimn´s first meal After scrutinizing Menus del Dia Christine has the brilliant idea of asking some locals who´ve just come out of a bar for recommendations. No, they don´t recommend the place they just exited, they direct us further up the road and around the corner where there is a selection of hostelries of various prices and apparent qualities. We settle for one called El Salvador (calle Postas, 7) and, indeed it is our salvation. The house wine is quite delicious, the fish fillet gigantic (Christine leaves nothing), my Revuelto de Ajetes very tasty as is my Esttofado de Ternera. The Puding we have, alas, is similar to all Spanish "Pudins" even though this one is a shade better than the others. Of course, it does not reach the heights of Mari Luz´s desserts at El Casón.
Ok, gentle readers, time for a little siesta and then off we go again to explore the sights of this town. More to follow, with pictures.
Suscribirse a:
Entradas (Atom)