Day 3

On to Molina Seca.

We knew this day would be more difficult but the sunshine and the fresh temperature made the going easier. Off we headed, all together, and soon were separated by speed and stamina. The need for proper footwear soon became evident and Christine fell back. One of the things the Camino teaches you is that everyone travels at their own speed, hanging back with a friend or new encounter, forging ahead or just taking in the view. You will eventually catch up with your companions at the end of the day and that is the perfect time to share your stories.

The Camino is, after all, a reflection of life itself. You have to be yourself, do your thing and move at your own speed. If you try to keep up with someone faster and fitter you´ll soon wear yourself out. If you try to slow down enough to keep up with a slower companion you´ll eventually get tired and you will not enjoy yourself. Some might say that it is selfish to think of yourself but I disagree. The word "selfish" has been given a bad run and I think we are all selfish to a certain degree. In fact, I´ll go as far as to say that anyone who says they are "only doing it for your own good" are the most selfish of all, together with those who help you because they expect something in return, eventually. This does not mean just looking out for number one but it does mean that if you want to help you should do it for the sake of helping and not for any other reason.

OK, back to the Camino. This is a very interesting section and one that is worth doing even if you only have a few days. The uphill and down dale sections are beautiful and you you can really commune with nature. There are a couple of lovely villages and sharing the walk with a few people is a great experience. Eventually you come over a ridge and see, way downhill, a village and the church spire. That is Molina Seca, an ancient village that even the Romans used as a rest stop. I was here last year for an intensive English course, using Shakespeare as a base. We had a great time and I got a taste of the Camino when I noticed the pilgrims walking past the luxury hotel we were staying at. I even went for a long walk along the path and decided that, one day, I would walk through this town on the way to Santiago. Little did I know that only eight months later I would be doing just that. Life is certainly full of surprises.

Kim and I were the first to reach the village and we grabbed a spot in the sun, by the river, at a restaurant that we hoped would quench our thirst and fill our bellies. We waited, and waited, and waited. By the time we were brought a menu and we saw the prices we were tired of waiting and the sun had gone behind the church spire. Off we headed to our rest stop to join the others and start another pilgrimage towards a suitable feeding spot. After wandering around some people managed to score a slice of tortilla but I just settled for a cold beer. We did, however, manage to book for dinner and that is what we did. The food was very good and the bottle of Bierzo wine I had was quite delicious and went well with the large chunk of grilled meat I ordered. The others settled for the Menu del Peregrino, also good value and a decent red as well.

The hostel in Molina Seca costs 7€ and is new. The owner and his wife are friendly and there is heating, plenty of hot water as well as washing facilities for those who need them. They also have beds in stead of bunks. It is on the road out of town so you are well placed for a downhill start to the day. Unfortunately, the 7 km trip to Ponferrada is mostly along the highway so it is not as interesting as being out in the country.