Day 4

Saturday Separations

During yesterday´s walk a few blisters appeared on several feet. Christine was done in by the stones, rocks and the gradient of the walk. Her shoes could not take it and her feet were sore. Sonia broke a nail that turned a nasty blue-red and looked infected and Gonzalo showed off a great big beauty under his foot. So all three retired and took the bus to Ponferrada and then on to Villafranca del Bierzo. Kim was going back to Madrid anyway so there were only Monica, Petrie and I on this leg (so to speak) of the trek.

Confession time. Today we carried our backpacks! On previous days we and other backpackers paid for our heavy packs to be taxied to our stopping place and delivered to the hostel. The fee came to about 5 € each time and was well worth it. Monica insisted on carrying her pack every day and was an inspiration to us all.

The day started miserably with rain and a cold wind. On the bright side was the fact that the walk was mainly downhill so for myself and Petrie the weight of the pack was not as great as it could have been. In Ponferrada we went to the bus station so that I could endorse my ticket from Villafranca back to Madrid over to Sonia and then we headed out of town. Ponferrada is a city that has a long history. The Romans had been here as well and the Templars and other Knights as well. There is a big castle, a cathedral and lots of other stuff to see. Well worth a visit and the food and wine of the Bierzo region are excellent.

After about an hour´s walk the girls had fallen behind and I was left to walk with only my thoughts for company. Not a bad thing, really and being cocooned in your rainproof poncho limits your field of view so that there is only you and the path for most of the way. Passing through small villages of varying beauty is interesting and pleasing to the eye as well as useful for the resting and refueling places they provide the weary traveler. The walk through the vineyards of the Bierzo is bucolic and the weather cleared enough for me to enjoy the scenery and take a few snaps. I was eventually glad to arrive at our stopping place, the Town Hall´s Pilgrim´s Rest just outside Villafranca del Bierzo. Unfortunately, I had already settled in and had a shower before I realized there was no heating in that place and that the forecast was not very pleasant at all. Still, it was comfortable, there was plenty of hot water and blankets galore.

When the ladies arrived about 40 minutes later we went into town to explore and to snap away. You can see the results on the side. The Sevilla restaurant was recommended and it turned out to be a good choice because the house wine was good and the food great value. Unfortunately, like in most Spanish restaurants, it was not hot. Generally speaking, if you want hot food it´s better to tell the,. Also, what I tend to do is to order just the first course and then the second when I´ve finished it. This way they cannot prepare both meals and leave the second to await your pleasure. It pisses off the kitchen but you do get a hotter steak or whatever.

This town is beautiful. Lots of narrow cobbled streets and alleys, pitched roofs and hills all around. Not sure whether the Romans made it out here but I wouldn't be surprised. ´The church is great and they were getting ready for a procession so we got to see all the carved figures sitting around waiting to be taken along the procession. Back at the hostal, we sat around for a while and then went to bed because the next day was going to be very difficult. As it turned out, we were not cold during the night and everyone slept soundly.